A
COUPLE OF OLD LANDMARKERS
by John W. C. Carlson
Delivered to The
November 21, 1999
My
initial comments are based on books I have in my office. These include The
Chicago Literary Club's The First 100 Years, 1874-1974 and Old Monroe
Street - compiled in 1914 by Edwin F. Mack as well as The History of
Chicago Building by Frank A. Randall dated 1949. Most of the later comments
are based on Russell Tyson's 1944 review of correspondence between Owen F.
Aldis and Peter C. Brooks. These letters were written primarily in the late
1800's.
It is well known that the first reported building in
There were many great stories during these early years about the problems in
overcoming the swampy condition of the City. The muddy streets were hazardous
as indicated in the old story about a passerby asking the man in the street, up
to his neck in mud, if he needed help. The man in the mud responded "No,
thank you - my horse is under me. "
In 1848, wood planking was put down on some streets but it was not until 1870
that the first asphalt pavement was laid. The high death rate due to sewage
disposal and drainage problems necessitated raising the street grades in 1855
and 1857.
In 1857, the first steam elevator was installed in
The debris from the
Our "First 100 Years" book indicated a move of the Literary Club to
the Portland Block in the spring of 1881 at the southwest corner of Washington
and Dearborn.
This time frame and move brings me to an early member of The Literary Club,
Owen F. Aldis. He is listed as a member in 1876 and as giving papers in 1878
-82 -83 and 1892. He was appointed agent and attorney in 1879 of the newly
rebuilt Portland Block in which he had been a tenant.
Literary Club members' dues were increased 240% to $24.00 per annum. The new
space was open to members every day and was equipped with specially made
carpets, draperies, furniture and a dumb waiter connecting to Kinsley's
Restaurant in the adjoining building where the Literary Club met later on after
vacating the Portland Block.
Randall's history describes the Portland Block as "an old style brick
building with somewhat eccentric architectural treatment of materials. The
architect was William LeBaron Jenney. Pressed brick was used for the front
which was then unusual. There were 7 stories and a basement; 65 offices and 2
passenger elevators. The occupants were bankers, attorneys, agents and
architects. The
Owen Aldis was a young attorney when he was appointed Agent of the Portland
Block. Randall's foregoing description would not apply to any of the many
landmarks Owen Aldis would develop thereafter for the then owner of the
Portland Block who was Peter C. Brooks of Boston. His brother was Shepherd
Brooks. These two men were actively purchasing and selling various parcels of
what is now downtown
One of their earliest purchases was $150,000 in 1881 for the lot adjoining to
the west of the then First National Bank site at
Russell Tyson reported the ultimate structure cost about $200,000. It was one
of the earliest so-called fireproof buildings which was successfully tested
when an adjoining building was totally destroyed by fire.
Land prices in the early 1880s were escalating rapidly.
In March of 1882 Aldis wrote to Peter Brooks that an ordinance was passed to
open Dearborn Street south of Jackson to Polk Street. Brooks had purchased a
lot 100' by 100' on the south side of Jackson Boulevard for $118,000.
Construction of Dearborn Street reduced Brooks' lot to 66' x 100' and the other
lots between Jackson and Polk to widths of 61' to 71'. Eight years later
construction of the north section of The Monadnock Block was commenced on this
site. This landmark continues today as a successful office building and a very
significant architectural achievement which is a story in itself.
In the interim Shepherd Brooks purchased the southeast corner of Monroe and
Dearborn for $350,000. This is the site of 33 West Monroe Street. The property
was ground leased for 50 years at an initial return of 7.2% with requirements
that the tenant construct a 4 story building over the entire site.
The rental market was very good at this time with many new businesses coming to
Chicago. Rental rates in the aforementioned buildings were from $1.30 to
$1.40/square foot.
A large part of the money which the Brooks used to purchase Chicago property
came from the sale of old family properties held for several generations in New
Orleans. They decided that New Orleans would be slow to grow and in 1880-81
wrote that Chicago would quickly develop to become the second, if not the
first, city in the U. S. In 1880 it was a very long way from its destination.
A letter in 1883 indicated the type of lighting used in office buildings at
that time. Leases prohibited the use of kerosene or anything other than gas or
electricity due to the concern about fire.
No one can be right all the time in matters of real estate. Developers need to
be lucky as well as wise.
Peter C. Brooks and Owen Aldis have proven to be wise. They built good
buildings in good locations at good times and took excellent care of their
properties. Many stand today as world famous landmarks such as The Rookery, The
Monadnock, Marquette, Champlain, Monroe and Brooks. Their influence and choice
of architects, contractors and tenants were equally important.
In December of 1884 they purchased the southwest corner of Clark and Van Buren
Street. The multiplicity of possible uses for this site was a factor. I read
somewhere that at one time this location was considered to be the heart of
Chicago's Chinatown. The site was later improved with a 2 story taxpayer which
stands to this day. During the depression years of the 1930's it was one of the
few downtown properties that consistently showed a profit. I understand it was
net leased to the United Cigar Stores in the 1920's and was recaptured due to a
default on the ground lease in the 1930's along with other Brooks' properties
that were net leased at that time. This 10,000 square foot site was sold by the
Brooks grandchildren in 1950 for $350,000.
Additional parcels for the Monadnock site were purchased and Peter Brooks
suggested various Massachusetts Indian names for the proposed building be used,
such as "Quamquisset" and "Squibnocket." Owen Aldis tried
these names out on Messrs. Burnham and Root, the architects chosen for the 4th
time by Aldis and Brooks, who were working on plans for the Monadnock site, and
it reportedly paralyzed them but they remembered the names the next day.
Holabird and Roche were working on plans for the "Tallapoosa
Building" at Harrison and Dearborn for Mr. Brooks. That building was later
named the "Pontiac" by which it is still known and stands to this day
substantially rehabilitated.
In 1885 the name "Monadnock" was decided on for the building at
Jackson and Dearborn and "Zohauk Block" for Clark and Van Buren,
later known as the Yukon Building.
Also in 1885 Owen Aldis prepared the 99 year lease of the block adjoining the
south side of the then new Board of Trade. He reported that the City had made a
99 year lease of The Rookery site.
Peter's brother, Shepherd Brooks, had acquired the Granis Block the site of
Burnham and Root's first office building at the southeast corner of Madison and
Dearborn. An interesting clause in his 65 year lease to a bank called for
$16,000/year rent or, if Landlord required, 64 pounds 6 ounces (by Troy weight)
of pure unalloyed gold which is 786 ounces of gold and which has varied in
recent years from $250 to $500/ounce. (At $300/ounce it equals $235,800or 14
times the original rental.) Later correspondence indicated a fear of silver
inflation and a definite preference for gold.
Gold clauses in leases were recently tested in the Supreme Court case of a
Conseco, Inc. unit whose rent for an office building in Des Moines was
reportedly increased about 1,500% due to a requirement that it be paid in gold
which is now equal to $1,800,000 in back rent plus about $370,000/year until
2016.
In May 1885 Aldis reported closing the purchase of the southeast corner of
Clark and Van Buren for $225,000, noting that the prior owner had purchased it
37 years before (in 1848) for $1,000,000. This is the site now occupied by our
architecturally significant jail.
The ground lease of The Rookery site was secured from the City by Mr. E. C.
Waller for $35,000 per year and was assigned to the Central Safety Deposit Co.
whose stock was $1,000,000 of which $562,000 was subscribed by Aldis as
President and as a trustee on behalf of himself and the Messrs. Brooks.
In March of 1886 Aldis wrote that the foundations in The Rookery were nearly
complete. Meanwhile the Home Insurance Building at the northeast corner of La
Salle and Adams was up and well rented. That building is now referred to as the
first steel skeleton construction.
In December 1885 Aldis reported that electric lights are now being put in all
new buildings. The power was generated by dynamos. Gas lighting was less
expensive but electricity afforded more illumination. Peter Brooks concurred in
their use but noted that (with all the things tenants are getting)
"landlords of the near future may expect to furnish food, drink and
rainment to his tenants as well as other comforts."
At the end of 1886 Aldis wrote that Chicago "has almost passed into the
New York City stage of growth, where lower returns and slower profits must be
looked for as a rule ... very few transfers are now made in the heart of the
city."
Peter Brooks wrote "I am gradually selling my real estate in New Orleans
where cash is not plentiful and payment comes slowly. I prefer real estate for
investment and know of no better place than Chicago for it. Property on State
Street or Wabash Avenue, between Van Buren and Taylor Street ... can not fail
in time ... to be of great value. The retail business of the original town must
expand chiefly in that direction."
This proved true at that time as evidenced by the Leiter Store, later taken
over by Sears, on State Street south of Van Buren. The area now appears to have
gone full cycle and has again enjoyed a resurgence in value.
At the beginning of 1887 Brooks wrote that "State Street will hold its own
and increase with the rest, but nothing more, and in due time first class
hotels and retail shops will disappear; none of any consequence are now in the
City of London, ... nor have been probably for 150 years, and although in
certain spots the land there is worth more per square foot than elsewhere in
the world, still within that time infinitely more money has been made in
outside land. The original town of Chicago will have become a second city of
London, (provided, of course, a Caesar, Napoleon or General Butler turns up to
save us)."
At this time Aldis wrote "as the entire North Side was burned out in the
great fire, the average residence from Ohio Street to Lincoln Park and east of
Clark, is better than anywhere else in the city. Along Lake Shore Drive there
are already built, and going up, very large and expensive houses ... All the
streets running from Dearborn Avenue to the Drive are filled up with excellent
residences ... the average population ... is better than elsewhere ... Mr.
Palmer's grotesque castle, fireproof, has probably cost from $300 -
500,000." I recently heard a talk indicating it cost over $1,000,000 and
that Mr. Palmer noted in his will that a large sum be given to the husband, if
his wife should remarry after his death. When Palmer was asked why he would
make such a gift he said in effect "Anyone who marries my wife will need
it."
Aldis wrote to Brooks that he did not like the name "Rookery" for
their new building at La Salle and Adams but that "no human being in
Chicago knows of any other name for it ... and it seems utterly impossible to
give any (other) name to it ... the best plan will be to have the street
numbers on Adams and La Salle Street doors and whoever does not like the name
can simply put the street numbers on their letterhead."
The Rookery site was owned by the Water Department of the City. At one time
there was a reservoir there and a ramshackle building, dirty and in bad repair,
occupied by many city offices and always referred to sarcastically as "The
Rookery."
In the fall of 1887 Aldis wrote "I am inclined to think that if nothing
happens to impede the growth of Chicago within ten years every lot will be
solidly and substantially built up and filled up in the center of the City. Of
course some buildings will by that time be torn down and rebuilt, and all under
ninety feet high will be raised to six stories or ninety feet. This means, of
course, an immense compressing of business population in the Center. Then rents
must rise largely, many kinds of business will be forced out of the Center,
many others must pay enormously high rents, or contract the space occupied by
them. When that time comes it does not seem to me improbable that such corners
as Dearborn and Monroe will be worth from $60 to $100 per square foot, and that
a fair ground rental would be three times what you now get. This time may be
five or it may be fifteen years, but it must come ."
In December of 1887 Peter Brooks wrote "I decidedly approve of elevated
railroads if one's property is near their stations. If it were a question of
investment I should prefer them to be underground but would rather leave both
to others. No doubt Chicago will in time see both in use, necessity will
require them. I should say the corner you bought for me could not be but
improved by an elevated road. Please, therefore, sign for me in favor of it.
"
In January of 1888 Aldis reported that leasing of The Rookery had progressed to
the point that they expected to pay a dividend by mid year which was ahead of
schedule. He expected the Brooks "very substantial investments" in
Chicago to double in value within 5 years and to be "by far the best
landed estate in the City."
In early 1889 Aldis wrote that "time is not far distant when you and I can
talk to one another between Chicago and Boston." Brooks responded that he
was using a real swan quill pen from London. For the next several years the
lengthy leases and other documents were hand written with pen and ink, usually
very legible and beautifully done.
The City almost doubled in size between 1880 and 1890 with a census at
1,100,000 while enjoying its fantastic growth in population and real estate
values becoming the second largest city in the country. Aldis reported
"The most corrupt set of aldermen ever elected in Chicago (and that is
saying a great deal) are about to take their seats. " A law was then being
considered absolutely prohibiting buildings beyond a certain height.
Aldis urged Brooks' approval of the plans needed to get permits for the
Monadnock and Marquette Buildings before the ordinance could be passed to limit
their height to the width of the street on which they faced - which would be
about 4 or 5 stories.
Buildings of up to 14 stories were being built and Brooks saw no reason for not
going to 16 stories noting that tenants were found at the top floors of other
tall buildings recently constructed. The plans for The Monadnock (with 16' wide
corridors) resulted in 68% usable space compared to 50 - 55% in The Rookery and
45% in The Home Insurance Building. The Commissioner of Buildings was staggered
by the proposal for a 16 story Monadnock Building.
In mid 1889 Aldis sold the Portland Block for Brooks and would use the proceeds
to start construction of the Pontiac and Monadnock Buildings.
One of Aldis' clients in London wrote asking whether they permitted tenants to
drill holes in the walls to bring phone lines into their floors. Aldis'
reaction was that it sounded as though London would be a good place to invest
in Real Estate.
George Fuller as contractor was frequently mentioned as part owner of the
buildings being constructed.
In planning The Monadnock, Peter and Shepherd Brooks wished to have 4 completely
separate buildings but with common corridors on all floors. Each of the 2
buildings planned for the north half of the block were to have separate
elevators and heating plants. The south building was to be known as the
"Kearsage." The doorknobs in the south half would be embossed with a
"K" white the north half had an "M."
The Worlds Fair was discussed in 1889, their correspondence noting the rivalry
with New York. 2 « million dollars had been subscribed initially but Aldis
noted that New York could raise $15,000,000 as easily as Chicago could raise 5
million.
The western part of the country preferred Chicago but the south and east
favored New York. In February 1890 Aldis advised that Chicago had secured the
Worlds Fair and that he would be one of the directors at the request of his
close friend, Marshall Field. The Brooks made liberal contributions to the
initial $5,000,000 capital stock fund being raised.
In 1890 Brooks wrote that Mr. Field was right in his opinion that the country
was growing too fast and that there was bound to be a financial reaction.
However, he believed that there is no better investment than Chicago real
estate which pays an income but it was important to fill the buildings before
the next financial crisis.
Near the end of 1890 Aldis wrote that the very heavy work as a Worlds Fair
director was about over. He hoped to resign as soon as the directors finished
defining the powers of the commissioners and directors and selecting 15 or 20
of the best architects in the U. S. to be each assigned to start construction
of individual buildings. Daniel H. Burnham was chosen to be the architectural
director of the Worlds Fair due to his great achievements with his partner,
John Welborn Root, who died at age 41 in 1891. Their achievements included the
Mauntauk, the Rookery and north « of the Monadnock among other landmarks. The
very different south half was designed by Holabird & Roche who Aldis and
Brooks used for seven of their office buildings. The Pontiac is listed in
Randals as their third office building being constructed in 1891.
The real estate board favored 8 - 10 story buildings, anticipating an
oversupply of office space. Aldis felt that property in the center of Chicago
would not fail in price and that the best corner was State and Madison.
In early 1892 Aldis advised Brooks that the costs of building the Monadnock and
Kearsage Buildings were increasing and arrangements were made for building The
Katahdin and Wachusett Buildings which are now the south half of the Monadnock
Block. Due to the increased costs as well as troubles regarding
superintendence, details of construction, etc. Aldis and Brooks decided that
the south buildings should be designed by Holabird and Roche. Brooks wanted the
south wall of the new buildings to be as massive as the adjoining structure. He
regarded strength and solidarity as being by far the most important points of a
building of this kind. "It ought to stand for a century and it is to be
hoped that no part of the block will change hands by sale at least for a very
long time." The entire east wall along Dearborn Street had to be supported
at great expense in connection with construction of the Dearborn Street Subway.
The costs of this work was reportedly roughly equal to the cost of demolition. The
Monadnock was sold in the 1960s. The property was very extensively restored by
the present owner and is well occupied at this time.
Aldis had a great influence on the design of the north half of The Monadnock
Block in the elimination of the customary overhanging cornice. He drew 2
parallel sloping lines on a sheet of paper in his discussion with the
architects who designed the north half accordingly. There must have been
substantial criticism at the time of this design since the south half reverted
to the old more prevalent scheme of a big overhanging cornice with much
brick-a-brack which became a great expense to maintain in later years.
Meanwhile the north half was a style similar to some of our more recent
structures.
Some of the other interesting contrasts between the north and south portions of
the Monadnock were the massive entrance at Van Buren Street which was expected
to be the more dominant entrance. At one time the north entrance at Jackson
Blvd. was a single revolving door at the lot line although each of the four
buildings had numerous entrances to the stores along Dearborn Street.
The north half of the building with its massive walls, about 6 feet thick at
the base, settled about 8 inches initially and ultimately 20 inches by the year
1915. Allowance was made for a similar settlement on the south half that never
occurred. This settlement resulted in a slope apparent on the upper floors
where the two halves of the building were joined.
The elevated structure was designed in 1892. Several separate companies were
involved. The first was the Chicago and South Side Rapid Transit Railroad which
ran to the grounds of the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893. It had wooden
coaches pulled by a steam locomotive. By 1896 three independent companies were
merged in a single "loop" system.
At this time they decided that the name Monadnock Block should be used for its
entire building of four sections whose other names were Kearsage, Katahdin, and
Wachusett with the provision that if the sections were separated later on the
north section alone could continue to use the name Monadnock.
Also at this time Aldis formed a trust to take over the northwest corner of
State and Madison. The first subscribers were familiar names: G. A. Fuller,
Byron L. Smith, Holabird & Roche, O. F. Aldis and Otto Young of the Fair
Store.
Brooks was concerned about all the large railroad leases that had been made in
the north end of the Monadnock. He feared their close organization might band
them together in an effort to reduce rentals but their differing lease
expirations should be helpful.
The same concerns involved leases to the United States Courts while the new
Post Office was being built. Patent attorneys were another profession that was
well represented.
These concerns were well founded since these groups later moved necessitating
leases to small tenants requiring expensive alterations.
In the spring of 1893, work was being pushed to finish the south half of the
Monadnock. There were labor troubles and George Fuller, as contractor, was
losing money on the job.
Aldis wrote to Brooks: "Mr. Fuller has expended $20,000, or more, to
finish swiftly and get some added floors ready. The strain on him has slightly
affected his powerful physique."
In the same letter, referring to the World's Fair, which was then about ready
to open, he said: - "So far, the only man who has thriven under the
enormous pressure for two years is Mr. Burnham. I don't believe that any human
being since Sherman and Grant ever went through more continuous and harassing
labor. From raising domes to harmonizing painters, sculptors and architects,
his work has been indefatigable and he grows healthy and strong under it all.
People forget that the plan of the Exposition sprang from the brains of Mr.
Root and Mr. Olmstead, but Mr. Burnham has been the real Director General, and
we all rejoice in his success. It gives me great satisfaction personally to
think that Mr. E. S. Pike and myself were able to defeat competition' in the
old committee, to convert them to Olmstead, Root and Burnham, and I keep as my
only memorial of the Fair a list of ten architects selected by myself (without
consultation with Mr. Root) which I compared with the list he pulled out of his
pocket. We agreed as to nine of the ten and he was right about the tenth!
A general depression of business occurred in 1893. Brooks hoped for the
Senate's repeal of the Sherman Act. He anticipated that gold would be at a
premium and there would be a general inflation in silver money. He was glad
that nearly all their leases were in gold. On a fall trip to London, Aldis
found that hard times were even more pronounced there than in Chicago. Wages
and building materials were decreasing. He wrote regarding the construction of
the "L": " Chicago continues its mad career despite panic and
reaction from (the) Worlds Fair and many people continue to be obstinately
optimistic, and go ahead in spite of everything. It is almost pathetic."
The "L" suffered a long history of foreclosure, receivership,
inability to pay taxes, etc. until ultimately taken over by the City.
It took about 7 years to tear down the old buildings and build the new Post
Office and Federal Courts Building.
In the spring of 1894 one of the electrical concerns went to Mayor Carter
Harrison to get an ordinance passed to put wires under the streets to
neighboring properties. The mayor responded "Don't try now. The boys in
the council are as thirsty for blood as wolves. Some big jobs are coming on and
then they will be glutted and you can get it through honestly." Aldis
commented "It is a bad business all around, but I think we will get more
honest men than usual at the next election." In those days the only way to
get an ordinance passed was to pay the gray wolves as the aldermen were then
called.
Labor relations were a big concern and Aldis wrote "The feeling among men
of all kinds about strikes' is very bad. I have just discharged two men for
joining a union - elevator men. I am trying to invent some association of my
own, with insurance, etc., but I don't know how it will work yet. There is only
one way to avoid strikes. This is to tie people to you with hooks of
steel."
About 50 years later the then leaders of the same company led the negotiations
to settle the only elevator men's strike in the city's history. Automatic
elevators were thereafter installed in nearly every new building. Aldis'
nephew, who was then president of the management company, passed out cigars to
the pickets in front of one of the landmark buildings. This brought tears to
one of the strikers' eyes as he protested his assigned job of picketing.
The correspondence during the spring, summer and autumn of 1894 with the
Messrs. Brooks largely concerned the details of the construction and cost of
the Marquette Building, and with the great railroad strike which resulted in
considerable violence and the burning of freight cars in the freight yards. To
quell the disturbance Grover Cleveland sent out United State troops and squads
of them were posed around the old post office building with rapid fire guns.
The United States Marshal came to the Aldis office and suggested that they have
rapid fire guns mounted in the lower hall of the Monadnock for the protection
of the United States Courts. Aldis felt this seemed unnecessary as the military
promised they would protect the building and with it the United States Courts.
In a letter of September 22, 1894 Owen Aldis sent detailed estimates of costs
of the Marquette Building and in it he said: "This building is finished as
no building ever has been in Chicago ... The work so far, in masonry, steel,
terra cotta, etc. is flawless - or seems so. We have been guilty of two or
three extravagances! Tiffany gave us one - the drawings of which will be
forwarded when in shape -scenes from the life of Marquette, viz (1) Leaving
Point St. Ignace; (2) The Meeting with the Illinois; (3) Marquette's death;
three other panels, etc. But it can hardly be explained without drawings and I
am making him change them. It is good history - and I hope will be artistic.
The grille work on the first two stories is another - solid bronze. The $2,000
is artist's fees - for reliefs (Indian and pioneers heads in bronze on the
grilles. The third, Fuller gave us. He insists on mahogany and this time we
have mahogany and not baywood! This costs about $18,000 more than oak for the
whole building. Hard times are awful on men dealing in such luxuries, and the
result is simply amazing."
After discussing mahogany from various different localities where they can
still get it, he said: - "The mahogany we have (140,000 feet) comes from
the forests on the slopes of the Cordilleras in Tobasco and Chiapas - or they
say it does. It is hard, fine in texture, good in color and we have a guarantee
that every piece shall be figured, and so far we have been successful in this.
If we continue to do so, it will be worth the money - if not, it will be
throwing money away. I have examined most of the extravagant buildings in N.Y.
and I know of none generally finished with such good wood. They have paid enormous
prices, too. Then two years ago the wood we get would have cost $325 to $375
per thousand. We get it for $200 all carefully selected. So, when we consider
that we have what appears to be an extravagant building (particularly about the
entrance) with some expenditure for artists, and mahogany and solid bronze, and
that the actual cost of the building (which contains as much renting space as
the Rookery) will be (outside of Interest, ground rent, etc.) not far from
$1,200,000 and that we shall be called upon to contribute $500,000 (including
interest and ground rent) I think we have occasion to feel encouraged. The
Rookery in the same style would have cost about $2,000,000 or not far from it.
We are building from 30% to 40% cheaper than then. We may have to rent cheaper,
though! And I really don't think that any money was wasted on the Rookery ...
As this is probably the last of the very high buildings my hope is that it may
be the best and I honestly believe that it is so far."
As a comment or prophesy on what has happened to our city real estate, he goes
on in the same letter to say: - "If I ever lose all faith in real estate
in cities it will be from fear of enormous taxation and bad government."
This was much truer than his prophesy about "Marquette" being the
last of the very high buildings.
The head of Father Marquette was done by Mrs. Amy Aldis Bradley, sister of the
Messrs. Aldis and wife of Mr. R. M. Bradley, of Boston. The model who posed for
it was a young man named Brainerd in Mr. Bradley's office.
The following was taken from Chicago - In and Around the Loop By Gerald
R. Wolfe.
The bronze bas reliefs by New York sculptor Herman Atkins MacNeil which depicts events from the 1673-74 expedition of Father Jacques Marquette. The Jesuit missionary priest, accompanied by Louis Joliet and others from French Canada, were the first Europeans to visit the region. The building was named for Marquette by Owen Aldis, the agent for the building's developers, who translated the priest's journal. Aldis' enduring passion to the history of the Northwest Territory is even more evident in the lobby the mother of pearl and favrile-glass panels, by J. A. Holzer, the chief mosaicist of Tiffany & Co.; and the 16 bronze reliefs of Native American chiefs and French missionaries and explorers above each of the elevator doors, designed by Edward Kemeys, the sculptor best remembered for his pair of lions guarding the entrance to the Art Institute of Chicago.
The
Marquette Publishing Company was a tenant in the Marquette Building and
published an elaborate 80 page brochure of the building. A prefatory note
mentioned 40 volumes of text book literature consulted. Marquette's own
narrative was first printed by Thervenot at Paris in 1731. "The Legend and
Legacy of Pere Marquette" was copyrighted in 1897 by Messrs. Niersey,
Cleveland and Meiosty.
During the summer and autumn of '94 they had the usual trouble with strikes in
building the Marquette, the union men refusing to work on the job when
non-union men were employed in any of the work. In a letter of November 14,
Owen F. Aldis refers to one strike in which there had been some slugging of
non-union men - "Unions are dissatisfied with the strike and I rather
think that all will go well and an agreement be reached. There is no question
of wages - simply that they will not allow other unions not affiliated with the
Building Trades Council to work."
In a letter of December 14, 1894 to Peter C. Brooks, referring to the southeast
corner of Milwaukee and North Avenue (then owned by the Estate of Mr. P. C.
Brooks) Mr. Aldis writes: -
As
to the corner of Milwaukee and North Avenues. The lot is improving fast. The
slow, old fashioned horse car line on N Ave. is being changed to a swift (and
dangerous!) electric road. It will doubtless kill some people, but it will end
at the El R.R. station, and bring in many people alive. If it has the effect I
assume that it will have, there will be a surplus of population at that corner
notwithstanding the increase of mortality.
Indeed the most curious thing about this depression is that on the whole we are
gaining in the outside properties which I thought would suffer most."
In
April of '95 Aldis wrote of declining rents north of Washington St. while
buildings to the south thereof held their own with a better class of tenants.
He also mentioned that George A. Fuller had a stroke while driving one of his
fast horses. The horse brought Fuller home unconscious with the reins hanging
loose. Reference was also made to the silver dollar floor in Mr. Eden's barbershop
of the Palmer House. There were from 500 to 1000 holes chiseled in the marble
floor at a cost of far more that $1 a piece.
Speaking of the three bas-relief panels over the entrance doors to the
Marquette Building, done by the sculptor, McNeil, Owen F. Aldis writes, in a
letter of January 4, 1896 - "McNeil's panels are being placed in position.
It is greatly to their and his credit, that these bas-reliefs have won for him
the Roman Fellowship. The Commission, choosing him as the best of the very young
men, for that position, consisted of St. Gaudens, French, McKim, Mr. Walters of
Baltimore, and one other equally good judge. The young sculptor was married on
Christmas Day, and sailed for Rome and is, on the whole, the most happy young
man I know. He is very grateful to the owners of the Marquette Building."
In 1896 there was a great deal of discussion regarding the location of the
south side "L" in spite of a general depression. There was a great
struggle between grappling aldermen who were passing ordinances and Mr. Yerkes
trying to get approval for his traction and elevated lines.
The summer of 1896 was the depth of the depression following the panic of 1893.
There was great enthusiasm indicated in the election of McKinley in opposition
to the Bryan free silver campaign.
On Chicago Day - October 9, 1896 Aldis reported that 218 of the elevator men,
janitors, etc. of his buildings marched with banners, etc. supplied by Aldis in
support of McKinley. He predicted that at the end of McKinley's term we should
have good times and rising prices which proved to be correct.
25th November 1896
P.
C. Brooks, Esq.
West Medford, Mass.
Dear Sir:
There are certain things going on in connection with Parks and Boulevards
which, indirectly, affect the value and future of property in the center of
this City, and about which I think you should be informed, as well as Mr.
Shepherd Brooks, as your interests here are now so large.
At the time of the World's Fair some visionary gentlemen among the Directors,
including Mr. Ellsworth, Mr. Burnham and myself, made up our minds, on account
of certain negotiations with the "Illinois Central," to make them
sink their tracks as low as possible and build a park out into the lake.
Practically all of the preliminaries, legislation, etc. have been obtained for
this, and the work of filling is going on. The Mayor of the City came to an
agreement a year ago with the "Illinois Central," that in
consideration of a little more land at the North end, they would build the break
water along the outer edge of this Park of 160 acres, and the work is being
done. The City of Chicago then passed an Ordinance, granting the entire strip
now existing to the Park Commissioners and the entire outer Park as well.
Yesterday a meeting was held between Mr. Ellsworth (who is now fortunately the
Presidents of the Park Commissioners) representing the Park Commissioners and
Mr. Field, Mr. Burnham, Mr. Ream, Mr. Ayer and myself, representing the Museum,
as to that part of the legislation concerning the Columbian Museum (later known
as the Art Institute.) The agreement reached was entirely satisfactory. The
Columbian Museum has reserved in the Ordinance, (which will be accepted day
after tomorrow by the Park Commissioners) 26 acres in the center of this Park for
its building. At the South end of the Park reservation is made for a great
public exposition building, and at the North end, near the tracks of the
"Illinois Central" another reservation is made for a militia parade
ground, etc. The stone walls along the "Illinois Central" are nearly
finished, the railroad will be out of sight .
The effect of this is two-fold -
1. No other land can be built by the City out into the lake. There was always
danger of a magnificent job on the part of the Common Council to make a lot of
land, and sell the same - ostensibly for the benefit of Chicago - but really
for the benefit of corrupt men in Chicago.
2. A very beautiful Park will fringe the center of the City, on the Lake,
controlled by the Park Commissioners, and on Michigan Avenue, in time, will be
many more hotels and public institutions of various kinds.
This Park, in front of the center of the City, will cost the taxpayers very
little, owing to the agreement with the "Illinois Central" to build a
certain portion of it, and the small cost of the earth taken from the Drainage
Canal for filling.
Now that this is over, Mr. Ellsworth and Mr. Burnham are rushing vigorously a
thing about which, at the time of the World's Fair, none of the three or four
of us who believed it feasible, dared speak because it seemed still more
visionary, and that is - to connect this Park with Jackson Park (five and three
quarters miles distant from its South end) by means of a great causeway and
drive, one thousand feet from the present line of the shore, leaving a lagoon
with islands, etc. and many other attractive features between the present shore
and such drive. The plan has now reached a point where it will soon be publicly
discussed, and an effort will be made to rush the matter through the
legislature at the next session in January.
The great difficulty, when it was first started, was to see how the great cost,
which would be at least five millions (including the proper planting and
adornment) and if it could be met by the Park Commissioners, without very heavy
additional taxation.
If the Park Commissioners can be induced to put Mr. Burnham at the head of this
thing (and I believe they can) he will select just such men as were selected
for the World's Fair to lay it out, and adorn it in every conceivable way. The
Plan has been kept quiet until after election, and now it will be pushed with
the utmost energy. It will also make Chicago, along the Lake Front, a very
beautiful and attractive place. As one of the visionary dreams of the Lake
Front Park is now rapidly assuming tangible form, I hope that within a year or
two this other still more visionary drive will assume definite shape.
It will only effect indirectly the value of property in the center, excepting
on Michigan Ave. Still I think that it will tend to improve the center to some
extent. I thought I would write you about this as by and by it will be
discussed pretty freely in the newspapers.
Yours truly,
Owen F. Aldis
Aldis
wrote that in the depths of the 1893-96 depression that he often heard people
say as they did in the 1878-9 depression that they wish never again to own real
estate in Chicago and that it would have no value for years. This led him to
believe it would be a good time to buy the real estate from those who don't
stop to think and were throwing away their property. He predicted the
prosperity that followed the 1890's depression.
Commenting on the new Fisher Building at Dearborn and Van Buren, Aldis reported
that it had nearly ruined its developer who was offering offices to Monadnock
tenants at 75 cents to 90 cents/square foot per year after trying to hold the
line in the previous year.
He further commented that the outlying stores complained that the great
department stores in the center of the city absorbed much of their business.
The increased rapid transit facilities and depression aggravated their
complaints.
Russell Tyson reported on his negotiations with Hinky Dink Michael McKenna in
renewing the lease of his tavern at the southwest corner of Clark and Van
Buren. He had been asked to pay more rent. In response McKenna slammed down a
large empty goblet on the counter and said: "How do ye expect me to fill
that and give a free lunch besides for five cents and pay yee more rent"
He did renew his lease at the higher rent.
In 1897 an extremely corrupt downtown assessor proceeded to raise all the taxes
which were supposed to approximate 10% of market value. Mike McKenna was the
alderman and volunteered his services to reduce the taxes. The assessor's clerk
had offered to restore the values to their previous level for a fee of $3,500
cash. McKenna's fee was $1,800.00.
When the tax bills came in they were all at the same amount as the previous
year. The assessor had been trying to bluff his way into substantial fees to
prevent the increase that wasn't going to occur.
However, Aldis hired a tax fighter and took his cases to the County Court with
an agreement to pay 1/2 of the amount saved. They proved to the judges that
some of the neighbor's taxes were so much lower that the judge inferred fraud
on the part of the assessor. Thereafter there were 5 assessors and a Board of
Review of 3 sitting as a court with the books open to review.
Meanwhile the Spanish American War was in process which contributed to the
depressed business conditions until it ended in 1898.
There was an enormous development of the trolley and elevated lines which
resulted in a revolution in values of peripheral and central city locations.
The demand for office space was good for safe, fireproof construction. This
boom lasted for about 4 years until the short money panic of 1903.
In May of 1901 the first recommendation for electric elevators appeared.
Elevator operators in their first years received $50/month and $52.50 after the
first to fifth year and $55 thereafter. Janitors started at $45 and were
increased to $47.50 and $50. Office rents were $1.50 to $1.75 in the better new
buildings.
In 1902 the City ordered the owners of the Monadnock and Marquette buildings to
raise the level of their sidewalks. The buildings had settled in such a way as
to pull the sidewalks down at the building line. The level of the whole Loop
had settled about a foot but the City would not recognize this and required all
the affected buildings to go to the expense of raising their sidewalks to
grade.
There is mention of the effort of the City to charge rent for subsidewalk
space. Buildings generally extended their basements under the sidewalks to the
curb line of the street. The space was frequently used for storage. Some of the
department stores and others equipped their sidewalks with glass lights. This
permitted daylight to enter the lower level as well as frequent water damage
from sidewalk leaks.
There was considerable litigation and research done on the value and ownership
of subsidewalk space. The Supreme Court ruled that the common law dedication of
those streets laid out by the original plat of the School Section Addition to
Chicago, which with a few exceptions and extensions, included the west side of
State Street to Wells south of Madison to Harrison. This did not give the City
the fee to the streets and therefore the owners cannot be charged rent for use
of subsidewalk space in the subject parcels. There was generally a statutory
dedication of the streets north of Madison and east of State Street where the
City could charge subsidewalk rental. The City has also charged rental in
certain cases for projections over the sidewalk where there was a statutory
dedication.
There was also correspondence in 1904 mentioning the Citizens Street Cleaning
Bureau necessitated by the inadequacy of City services and the abundance of
horses. Charges were apportioned based on the measurement of street frontage.
Aldis hoped for the elimination of street tracks and to get the surface lines
under the street. The freight tunnels, 40 feet under the street, had recently
been finished. Those were the tunnels that recently transported river water to
many Loop buildings after one tunnel running under the river was accidentally
cracked open by a contractor.
The streets were choked by teams of horses hauling freight. Aldis envisioned
and promoted a 4 level transportation plan with 2 tunnels below grade for
people and freight and an elevated structure for transporting people. The
streets could thereby be loosened up for freight traffic.
There had been a short money panic in 1903 and a stock market panic in 1907
that was short lived until the beginning of World War I in 1913 which brought a
sharp decline followed by a kind of war boom.
In 1906, the idea of signal lights and push buttons on elevators was proposed.
Previously elevators were open cages with decorative and protective bars.
Elevators were stopped by passengers shouting "up" or
"down" while sometimes standing some distance from the car.
In 1907 Aldis wrote of the increase in value of their property at the southwest
corner of Monroe and Michigan. He cited the new Illinois Athletic Club and a
new 12 story white tile building next south, beginning to be occupied by the
municipal courts which he felt were no great advantage but better than stables,
etc. The University Club expected to build a new $1,000,000 Club House at the
northwest corner of Monroe and Michigan. Aldis was instrumental in having the
hiproof designed for the University Club and the Monroe Building across the
street to give Michigan Avenue more of a residential appearance offsetting the
flat roofs of the neighboring buildings.
Aldis was worried about the boom in 1907 which he said extended across the
entire country. He worried that the average man was getting deeply by debt in
speculating in land. He felt the boom could not last more than about 2 years
and values could not get much higher in the interim.
It was Brooks' custom not to borrow money and to pay cash for everything. New
property was acquired from the proceeds earned by their other buildings.
In the autumn of 1907 a severe money panic did occur. Clearing house
certificates were used locally as currency which was good in Chicago but not
elsewhere. The panic was short and had no lasting effect on general business.
The Brooks properties were ultimately placed in the care of Peter Brooks'
grandsons. They were reminded, when questions arose regarding possible sales,
that their grandfather attributed their family fortune primarily to their
investments in Chicago real estate.
Their last property in Chicago, the Brooks Building, was sold about a week
before the last grandson died. He was Leverett Saltonstall, who had been
governor and senator of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and Chairman of the
Armed Services Committee in World War II.
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