LEADERSHIP
by
Robert W. Carton

Presented before
THE
CHICAGO LITERARY CLUB
October 16, 2000 .

On Thursday, June 13, 1793, a small party of exhausted men lay on the bank of one of the headwaters of the Fraser River in what is now known as British Columbia. They really had no business being there. The closest settlement of Europeans was five hundred miles to the northwest at Lake Athabaska. It, in turn, was a mere wilderness outpost, 1800 miles to the west of Montreal. Ahead of our party lay over 300 more miles of mountainous country before they might reach the Pacific, where there was no friendly face to greet them.

The party had been recruited by Alexander Mackenzie, a 31 year old Scottish fur trader, with the purpose of crossing the North American continent from the settled area of Canada to the Pacific Ocean. This had never before been accomplished by Europeans north of the Spanish possessions in Mexico. In addition to Mackenzie the party consisted of nine persons: another Scot, Alexander MacKay, six French-Canadian voyageurs, and two Indian hunters. There also was a dog, known to history only as "our dog". All the men plus their baggage were carried in one twenty-five foot long birch bark canoe. The trip had been arduous, upstream all the way from Lake Athabaska.

By the 12th of June 1793 they had portaged at 54 degrees north latitude from the eastward flowing waters of the Peace River across the Continental Divide to a westward flowing rivulet, which ultimately would join the Fraser River and lead to the Pacific. There, in that small, fast flowing mountain stream, the party met disaster. The canoe struck and swung sideways down the river toward a bar that threatened to destroy it. Mackenzie jumped out and the others followed. The water deepened. They had to climb back in the canoe so as not to lose boat and cargo. One rock ripped off the stern. The bow was damaged as they hit a bank. As the wreck sank to the gunwales the men, clinging to the sides, rode whitewater for several hundred yards downstream into the shallows . They had lost their bullets; their powder was soaked; all were so numbed by the cold water that they could hardly stand. What to do? The answer to that question is given in Mackenzie's words as recorded in his Journal:

"All the different articles were now spread out to dry. The powder had fortunately received no damage, and all my instruments had escaped. Indeed, when my people began to recover from their alarm, and to enjoy a sense of safety, some of them, if not all, were by no means sorry for our later misfortune, from the hope that it must put a period to our voyage, particularly as we were without a canoe, and all the bullets sunk in the river. It did not, indeed, seem possible to them that we could proceed under these circumstances. I listened, however, to the observations that were made on the occasion without replying to them, till their panic was dispelled, and they had got themselves warm and comfortable, with a hearty meal, and rum enough to raise their spirits. I then addressed them."

Mackenzie in his talk expressed thankfulness for their narrow escape, urged on them the honor of conquering disasters and the disgrace that would attend them on their return home, without having attained the object of the expedition. He referred to the courage and resolution customarily exhibited by the men of the North. He also proposed ways in which the canoe might be mended and bullets manufactured from the shot remaining to them.

His talk was successful. In his words, "In short, my harangue produced the desired effect, and a very general assent appeared to go wherever I should lead the way." The men pulled themselves together and once more headed west toward the Pacific.

The operative word here is "lead". In this episode, and in others like it, Alexander Mackenzie displayed his powers of leadership. We should review here the manner in which his early life had allowed him to develop this ability to lead and the ways in which forceful leadership was the key to his triumphs in exploration of the North American Continent.

Alexander Mackenzie was born in 1762 in Stornoway, on the island of Lewis in the Hebredes. Scotland in the eighteenth century was a kind of European Tobacco Road, desperately poor, and many who could leave did. At the age of twelve Alexander sailed for New York in the company of two aunts. They arrived in America early in 1775, at a time when the Revolution was in its initial stages. Alexander's father, who had preceded him to the New World, enlisted in a Loyalist regiment. In 1778 the boy and his aunts moved north to Montreal, where they would be safe under the King's flag, away from the confusion of the revolution. In 1779 Alexander, now age 17, went to work in the Montreal office of a fur trader, John Gregory.

Why work for a fur trader? Because harvesting animal fur in the wilderness and selling the products to customers in Europe was the dominant industry of Canada in the Eighteenth Century and had been ever since the early days of the colony in the Sixteenth. A Montreal boy in 1779 was as likely to be drawn into the fur business as a Chicago boy might have been drawn to meat packing in the 1890's or a Detroiter to the auto industry in 1920. When the first European boats began to appear on the Canadian Atlantic coast shortly after the discovery of the New World by Columbus, they needed to find a product in the new land that might command a market in Europe and repay their backers for the capital invested. The cargo that they would haul back across the Atlantic in their small inefficient sailing vessels would have to represent considerable value in relatively small packages. Two products of the Canadian coast measured up in the period between 1500 and 1800: fish and furs. Dried fish satisfied the European need for high protean food. Furs had a variety of uses. They furnished body warmth to persons shivering without central heating in the European cold. Beaver skins were used in the manufacture of hats. Fur was desired as ornamentation and as a symbol of status. By the end of the period of French domination of Canada, that is by 1760, the value of all kinds of skins imported to Europe from Canada amounted to 135,000 pounds sterling, an enormous sum at that time (HAI 101).

From its earliest days the trade had depended on the native American Indians to collect the furs. The Indians themselves were desperate to obtain iron tools, knives, and arrowheads, copper kettles, and rum from the Europeans. It was a mutually advantageous arrangement. With the passage of time, as the Saint Laurence Valley became depleted of fur bearing animals, the zone of collection was pushed further and further west. When Alexander Mackenzie became a clerk in Mr. Gregory's counting house in Montreal, harvesting of wild animals was carried on along the shores of the western Great Lakes, in the drainage basin of Hudson's Bay, and, increasingly, in the wilderness west of Lake Superior.

Young Alexander Mackenzie had obviously impressed his employer, Mr. Gregory. At the age of 22 he was sent to Detroit with a shipment of goods to trade independently for the firm. While he was away in Detroit, without any solicitation on his part, he was admitted to partnership in the firm of Gregory, McLeod & Company, with the understanding that he would proceed into the wilderness in the following spring, of 1785, and remain there to conduct trade with the Indians as a so-called "wintering partner". Mackenzie had now reached a stage of independence that he would occupy for the rest of his life.

Mackenzie's first post in the interior was at Isle-a-la-Crosse on the Churchill River, west of Hudson Bay. Here he was in charge of collecting furs from the Indians and forwarding them to a collection point at Grande Portage at the western end of Lake Superior. At Isle-a-la-Crosse he learned one of the basic skills of the fur trade: how to deal successfully with the local Indian tribes. This ability was crucial for work in the interior. He was one of a handful of Europeans hundreds of miles away from any center of British strength. Survival and success depended on an ability to lead in dealing with native peoples. At that time he seems to have taken unto himself an Indian wife, known as "the Catt", who may have helped him understand native ways.

In 1787, when Mackenzie was twenty-five years old, he was ordered by the partners in Montreal to take charge of the company's most isolated trading post at Lake Athabaska, in what is now northern Saskatchewan. Since Lake Athabaska served as Mackenzie's base for both his great trips of exploration we should examine it in some detail. Athabaska is the southernmost of the three great lakes of the Canadian Northwest, the other two being Great Slave Lake, somewhat to the north of Athabaska and Great Bear Lake, even further north. Lake Athabaska lies about as far west as Great Falls, Montana, and as far north as the middle of Hudson Bay. One huge river, the Peace River, enters it from the west, and another giant stream, the Slave River, leaves Athabaska and runs north to Great Slave Lake. From Great Slave Lake another monster stream, now known as the Mackenzie, vanishes into the scrub forests on its way to the Arctic Ocean. In 1787, when Mackenzie arrived at this frontier outpost, nothing was known about the country to the west from which the Peace River came. Great Slave Lake, three hundred miles to the north , had been visited once or twice by Europeans, but of the wilderness north of that lake nothing at all was known.

Mackenzie seems to have been seized by a determination to know where these rivers went. If either of the great rivers leading respectively in or out of Lake Athabaska could be traced to the Pacific Ocean, then a major commercial victory would have been won. The notion of a water route across the North American continent, which had occupied the thoughts of explorers since the early Fifteenth Century, would have been realized. Early in his time in the Canadian wilderness Mackenzie started planning the explorations that would supply definitive answers to these questions.

The first initiative led north. Mackenzie recruited another Scot, his cousin Roderick Mackenzie, to manage the trading post during his absence. On Wednesday June 3, 1789 four birch bark canoes moved out of Lake Athabaska into the Slave River, headed north for Great Slave Lake. The party included, beside Mackenzie, one German and four French voyageurs, the wives of two of the Frenchmen, and an Indian known as the "English Chief", who was attended by two wives and several male followers. Also of the party was a Frenchman, Laurent Leroux, who had been assigned to set up a trading post at Great Slave Lake.

The three hundred mile trip north went flawlessly, and by June 23rd the party had entered Great Slave Lake. At this point their Indian guide, who had claimed to have full knowledge of the route, failed them. Great Slave Lake is somewhat larger than Lake Erie, and Mackenzie's party spent about a week looking in bay after bay before they found, at the western end of the lake, the origin of the great river of the north. Now it was simply a matter of paddling downstream along a river and through country that never before had been visited by Europeans. Mountains appeared to the south. What looked like bright white stones were seen on the top of one of them. These were said by the natives to be spirit stones. Mackenzie concluded that they were patches of snow. After days of paddling they reached a point where clear green water was coming in from the east. This was the outflow of Great Bear Lake, largest of the three huge northern Canadian Lakes. By the end of the first week in July they had reached what is now known as the "ramparts of the Mackenzie', a gorge three or four hundred feet wide through which the giant river rushed. After the ramparts the river widened and ran in numerous channels between islands. On July 12 they landed on an island from which they could see open water. At their campsite the surface rose and fell in conformity with the tides. Out in the bay they could see Beluga whales at play. They had reached the Arctic Ocean.

At this point at least one mystery was solved. No river north of Lake Athabaska could flow east and west to serve as a passage to the Pacific. They had explored the course of one of the world's great rivers, now known as the Mackenzie. At two thousand six hundred and thirty-five miles in length it is longer than the Niger or the Mississippi or the Volga. Prior to the explorations of Alexander Mackenzie no European knew it was there.

The passage back upstream was difficult. The tough voyageurs could paddle all day, but any headway they might make was often negated by the current. They were frequently reduced to towing the canoes by lines leading to the bank. It's interesting to note that the second day of the trip south was July 14, 1789, the day on which the Paris mob stormed the Bastille and initiated the French Revolution. Far away in western Canada, our party of explorers had no knowledge of events in Europe. They had plenty to do moving their canoes upstream and fighting off the mosquitoes. The Indians had told them as they started north in June that it would take at least a year to reach the end of the great river and return. Mackenzie pushed his people and himself. By September 12 he was back at Lake Athabaska with his crew intact. He himself seems to have been dissatisfied by his accomplishments. The Mackenzie River itself he named "The River of Disappointment", because it led to the Arctic Ocean and not to the Pacific. He also felt that his lack of navigational skills had not allowed him to determine where he had been as precisely as he would have liked. This deficiency in his navigational records would interfere with his ability to demonstrate his accomplishments to the people whom he respected in Montreal and Europe.

In 1791 Mackenzie procured his first leave of absence since entering the country west of Lake Superior in 1785. Roderick Mackenzie was left in charge at the trading post. Alexander Mackenzie proceeded first to Montreal and then to London, where he spent the winter of 1791-92. Little interest seems to have been taken in his explorations either in Montreal or in London. However, while in England he had the opportunity to acquaint himself with the latest navigational techniques and to buy the instruments that would allow him to make accurate measurements of position in any future voyage.

Mackenzie left London in April 1792. Five months later he was again at Lake Athabaska. By this time his intention to explore the country west of the lake all the way to the Pacific had been firmly established. As he put it in his journal, "I returned (from England) to determine the practicability of a commercial communication through the continent of North America, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans." There it is. No nonsense. He tells you what he intends to do, and he does it. The scale of his thinking is amazing. One summer season he had pushed a party of canoe men all the way from central Canada to the Arctic Ocean. Now he would push another to the Pacific. That's leadership.

Like Lewis and Clark nine years later, Mackenzie realized that he would need a forward base from which he could complete the body of the trip west to the Pacific in one season. Lewis and Clark wintered at the Mandan Villages before making their dash to the ocean. On October 10, 1792 Mackenzie and his party paddled out of Lake Athabaska and west up the Peace River towards a camp which an advance party had been assigned to construct. They traveled in one 25 foot long birch bark canoe. Assisting Mackenzie was his lieutenant, Alexander Mackay, as well as six French voyageurs (two of whom had journeyed with him to the Arctic Ocean), and two rather untrustworthy Indian guides. No particular difficulties were encountered in this first leg of the trip. Game was abundant, and they had plenty to eat. By November 1 they had reached the proposed site of winter quarters, near the site of the present town of Peace River, Alberta and three hundred miles upstream from their starting point. A crowd of local Indians watched the proceedings with curiosity. Mackenzie's manner of dealing with the native peoples reflects the self-confidence of British explorers in the 18th Century. Here is his description of an initial council with the local Indians at this forward base camp on the Peace River (We must remember that he was an intruder in their country):

"My tent was no sooner pitched, that I summoned the Indians together, and gave each of them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram of spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been very troublesome to my predecessor, I informed them that I had heard of their misconduct, and was come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I added also, that it would be an established rule with me to treat them with kindness, if their behavior should be such as to deserve it; but, at the same time, that I should be equally severe if they failed in those returns which I had a right to expect from them. I then presented them with a quantity of rum, which I recommended to be used with discretion; and added some tobacco, as a token of peace. They, in return, made me the fairest promises; and, having expressed the pride they felt on beholding me in their country, took their leave." (VPO p. 16

Winter in the Canadian north is a time of rest and preparation. The great Peace River froze over on the 22nd of November 1792 and did not again show open water until late in April, 1793. By February the cold had become so intense that Mackenzie's watch stopped. The axes of the workmen became almost as brittle as glass. Finally, as spring progressed, open water appeared and the canoe could be launched.

Consider the geographic position of the party of exploration as they broke camp. They had come three hundred miles west from Lake Athebasca. They were still in the Canadian prairie, on the bank of a great river. The river came from the west. They knew nothing of its course upstream. Ahead of them, and in plain sight, lay the Rocky Mountains. To reach the Pacific they would have to cross those mountains and perhaps find a river leading to the coast. They started up river in their birch bark canoe on Thursday May 9, 1793.

Initially they passed through beautiful country filled with game. For the next two weeks their course lay due west. The river was now a typical mountain stream, swift and full of rapids. The explorers were frequently forced to unload the canoe and to cut a road through the woods so that they could carry their boat and their gear. During this period of exertion MacKenzie worked along with his men to push the expedition forward. Here are his notes for Monday May 20, 1793:

"We now continued our toilsome and perilous progress. As we proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times, and carry everything but the canoe; indeed, in many places, it was with the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her from being dashed to pieces against the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid."

Back in camp the preceding winter Mackenzie had encountered an old Indian who claimed to have been some years before on a war party that had penetrated into the mountains. According to this man, the Peace River, as one followed it west, would ultimately split into two streams, a north branch and a south branch. If one took the south branch one would in the course of time come to a carrying place that led across the crest of the mountains to a great stream flowing toward the ocean. So it turned out. They found the fork in the river and followed the south branch. Once more Mackenzie's leadership skills were needed:

"I ordered," he says, "my steersman to proceed at once to the South branch, which appeared to be more rapid than the other, though it did not possess an equal breadth. These circumstances disposed my men and Indians, the latter in particular being very tired of the voyage, that I should take the Northern branch, especially when they perceived the difficulty of stemming the current, in the direction on which I had determined. Indeed the rush of water was so powerful, that we were the greatest part of the afternoon in getting two or three miles a very tardy and mortifying progress, and which, with the voyage, was open execrated by many of those who were engaged in it, and the inexpressible toil these people had endured, as well as the dangers they had encountered, required some degree of consideration. I therefore employed those arguments which were the best calculated to calm their immediate discontent, as well as to encourage their future hopes, though at the same time I delivered my sentiments in such a manner as to convince them that I was determined to proceed."

Mackenzie and his people pushed south on the stream that he had chosen. Ultimately the stream ended in a small lake from which a path led to another small lake, out of which the water flowed westward, toward the Pacific. They had passed over the Continental Divide.

On Thursday June 13, in the fast flowing stream leading west from the second lake, occurred the wreck of the canoe, which we have already described at the beginning of this paper. As you may remember, the canoe dashed against the rocks and sank to the gunwales with a loss of significant parts of their equipment. This was a catastrophe that called for Mackenzie's determination and full powers of leadership. By the force of his personality he managed to elicit a general agreement to press forward. The exhausted men repaired their canoe, entered the stream once more, and moved on westward toward the Pacific.

Even today Mackenzie's route west from the Continental Divide crosses some of the wildest country in North America. Shortly after the wreck , the party abandoned the river system, cached their canoe, and struck out across country. The route which they followed is now known as the Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail. You can hike it yourselves, if you feel so inclined. It takes off near Quesnel, British Columbia, on the headwaters of the Fraser River and ends at the Dean Channel, an outpouching of the Pacific Ocean. Here is how the trail is described in a current book of advice for back-packer:

"This 450 km. Hike is extremely strenuous, time consuming and for experts. The hike will take you three weeks, so be well prepared and completely self reliant. Parts of the hike through Tweedsmuir Provincial Park are isolated, so it is best to hike with at least three people. Be prepared for the worst possible weather conditions and pack as light as possible. One food supply drop halfway is essential; make these arrangements well in advance." (from Google: Alexander Mackenzie)

Mackenzie's party did not have the advantage of food drops or advance arrangements. Nor did they know exactly where they were going. They did have the help of Indian guides and did keep moving west, first along mountain pathways and then in canoes on westward flowing river systems. As they progressed they met a new kind of Indian, who lived in well constructed wooden houses and depended on the river salmon for food. They had reached the domain of the Northwest Coast Indian Tribes.

Finally, on Saturday July 20, 1793, they came out of the river and into an arm of the sea. Mackenzie in his journal did not describe any particular sense of elation. He did, however, note down things which we associate with the seashore, including tides which rose over fifteen feet, porpoises in the bay, and mussels, which when boiled provided a delicious dinner for the two Scots. The French voyageurs, being inlanders, refused to eat them.

These practical people knew that they had better start for home without delay, since they needed to be back at their home base before winter set in. As a last act before turning eastward Mackenzie "mixed up some vermilion in melted grease, and inscribed, in large characters, on a rock on the edge of the Pacific Ocean this memorial Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three'."

The trip back was relatively easy. By this time they knew the way and the hazards which they might expect. All members of the expedition survived intact, including their dog, which had deserted them in one of the Indian Villages in the Bella Coola Valley but who rejoined them as they progressed eastward. On August 24 they arrived at their base camp on the Peace River and some days later (or eleven months after their original departure) they were home at the trading post at Lake Athebasca. They had shown that there was indeed a route from central Canada to the Pacific but that it lead over the Rocky Mountains and was not in any sense the commercially useful Northwest Passage for which people had been searching.

One would like to think of Alexander Mackenzie as a romantic hero, who had accomplished great things only to be ignored during his lifetime and appreciated after his death. This, however, was not the case. He was to spend the remainder of his life becoming successively richer and more famous.

Mackenzie remained the winter after his return from the Pacific at his frontier trading post in a state of depression. This seems to have been a reaction to the stresses of his journey to the Pacific. The following spring he left for Grand Portage on Lake Superior and, at a meeting of the partners, was appointed agent of the company, with station in Montreal. During the next few years, although active in business in Canada, he was able to spend considerable time in London, where, in 1801 the narrative of his explorations was published as Voyages from Montreal on the River St. Laurence, through the continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, in the years 1789 and 1793. This book detailing Mackenzie's accomplishments came to the attention of King George III. On February 10, 1802 Mackenzie was knighted by the King. His fur trading company in Canada promptly changed its name to "Sir Alexander Mackenzie and Company". In 1805 Mackenzie left Canada for good. In 1812 he married a 14 year old fellow member of his Scottish clan, Geddes Mackenzie, and spent the remainder of his life on her estate in Invernessshire. The Catt, his Indian wife, apparently had died in Canada about ten years after Mackenzie left the wilderness for Montreal.

Leadership seems not to be a matter of scale. It can be demonstrated in the management of a team of French Canadian voyageurs just as clearly as in generalship of an army. There seem to be certain elements to leadership that are usually present. One is the ability to set a goal. Another is the ability to recruit followers and to infuse them with enthusiasm for reaching that goal. A third element is the determination to keeping moving toward the goal, even when difficulties seem insurmountable. And finally, most good leaders are willing to participate in the hardships of any project as well as in its rewards. Measured against these standards Alexander Mackenzie appears as one of the great leaders in the history of exploration of the North American Continent.

Robert W. Carton


BIBLIOGRAPHY

Mackenzie, Alexander: Alexander Mackenzie's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean in 1793 Chicago: R R Donnelley & Sons Co. 1931
Original publication in London 1801

Ambrose, Stephen E.: Undaunted Courage
New York: Simon & Schuster. 1996
p. 73-75 describes the influence on Thomas Jefferson of Alexander Mackenzie's overland trip to the Pacific. Jefferson and Lewis read Mackenzie's account of his trip in the summer of 1802, as they were preparing the Lewis & Clark expedition, which took off May 1804.

Campbell, Marjorie Wilkins: The Northwest Company
Toronto. Macmillan of Canada. 1957
NU Library 971.2 N879Yc

Encyclopedia Britannica Online: Lewis & Clark Expedition. Accessed 24 April 2000

----------- Pacific Mountain System Study and exploration Accessed 24 April 2000

Gough, Barry: First Across the Continent - Sir Alexander Mackenzie.
Norman: University of Oklahoma Press. 1997
NU Library 971.2 M156Zg

Google: Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail.
Retrieved from the Internet 11 Feb 2000

Innis, Harold A.: The Fur Trade in Canada
New Haven. Yale Univ. Press. 1956
Borrowed by Winnetka Library

Rich, E. E.: The Fur Trade and the Northwest to 1857
Toronto. McLelland and Stewart. 1967
Borrowed by Winnetka Library from Trinity Christian College
HD 9944 C22 R5

Wade, M.S.: Mackenzie of Canada
Edinburgh & London. Blackwood. 1927
NU Library 971.2 M156Yw

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